HOUSTON (AP) — Running a restaurant is difficult under normal circumstances. During a pandemic, it's almost impossible.

For Houston chef Chris Shepherd, it's been "an all-out hustle" to survive after local officials limited restaurants to takeout and delivery, a business environment that has become the new normal for most eateries across the U.S. as part of efforts to slow the spread of the coronavirus.

Shepherd's had to make tough, emotional choices, including closing three of his four restaurants and furloughing most of his 170 hourly workers — people he considers family.

The elegant dining...